Theater Of the Absurd
At a certain moment during Yohji Yamamoto’s presentation of replica louis vuitton handbags his spring collection called Y’s, it appeared the designer was offering a sweater that had four sleeves. The charcoal gray knit was stretched and elongated like a melting clock in a Salvador Dali painting. The second pair of sleeves was set in just below the elbows. The model, being normal, had only two arms.
At the Comme des Garcons show on Wednesday, the models wore stuffed kerchiefs that looked vaguely like toreador hats. They were also dressed in translucent taupe colored tops that reminded one of an extra large, non ribbed Trojan for the torso. The models’ breasts were visible beneath the thin pullovers, but the effect was more clinical than sexual. It was about midway through the show when one realized that the only actual garments on the runway were skirts with reverse seams and the loose feel of pattern pieces roughly tacked together. Designer Rei Kawakubo’s skirts all essentially high quality replica handbags china looked the same, but it was the subtlety that was the point. This was a study in fabric and composition.
The passing skirts were accompanied by background music that played in fits and starts. Just when heads began to bob, the music would come to an abrupt halt. None of the audience members said much as they perched cheap louis vuitton bags from china on their little chairs, but an Italian couple in the fourth row tried in vain to muffle the sound of 1:1 replica handbags their erupting giggles.
Martin Margiela, the elusive Belgian designer, unveiled his collection on Monday. Although there were dainty eyelet tops, long satin gowns with roughly tucked bodices, and glittering brooches of found glass and metal, there were also skirts that hung off the fronts of dresses as though the laundry had forgotten to toss the Bounce into the dryer. The models, whose hair had been brushed forward over their faces, were led by gentlemen handlers through the darkened room onto platforms. The audience gathered around the pedestals and scribbled madly. Perhaps one of them was composing an explanation for why it is good to have an extra skirt stuck to one’s hip.
The spring 2004 fashion shows, which opened in Paris on Monday night, push logic and plausibility to the extreme. They test one’s ability to remain open minded and to give the absurd or unfamiliar a fighting chance instead of sitting, slack jawed, in bemused indifference. The designers are on a path rough and at times disappointing toward a new aesthetic. They are searching for a different way of realizing the familiar cheap louis vuitton bags from china , some new way of expressing femininity, glamour, sophistication. Isn’t that always the quest? They disregard rules or bend them to their will. Still, there is extraordinary precision and control in most of what they do. The placement of a seam or the use of a basting stitch has been carefully considered.
The absurdities of the week, the strange juxtapositions, may ultimately lead to something that is right and wonderful. Needle thin high heels sank into the marshy sand and there were shouts of “Don’t push” in English and French, as well as certain expletives that Designer Louis Vuitton Replica Handbags cross all language barriers. The mess seemed a little rough and back alley for a house that has become a certified moneymaker for corporate parent LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton. But part of the allure of Dior, under the creative direction of John Galliano, is the way in which it dabbles in the unorthodox, getting down and dirty Discount Replica Louis Vuitton Bags in the muck.
Less predictable than the collection is the manner in which Galliano will take his runway bows. He puts a great deal of effort into his self presentation and has appeared with dreadlocks and Mohawks, bare chested with fake designer bags pectorals greased up as replica louis vuitton bags from china if for a bodybuilding competition, as well as suited up like an English dandy. This season he promenaded to the foot of the runway in a pale gray satin suit, shirtless but with replica louis vuitton his jacket closed. There, he struck a pose with more vigor than any of his models had been able to muster.
The models wore fitted gray satin suits of the 1940s era, trompe l’oeil tattooed body stockings, fake louis bag filmy chiffon evening gowns, corsets and studded patent leather bras. Galliano uses fashion as a way to take fantasy into the realm of reality. A woman may not be willing to turn her body into a permanent canvas, but with Galliano’s help, she can slip into a body stocking and live out that fantasy for an evening.
Ghesquiere designs like an engineer, offering clothes that seem to emerge from elaborate formulas which take into account aerodynamics, drag and momentum. The pencil skirts with their judicious slits and provocative seaming hugged the body without apology, and the shrunken jackets were impossibly tight and streamlined. His garments are built for speed. They allow a woman to slip in and out of a crowd unencumbered, everything held in close and tight, and without adornment like a fashion torpedo.
As a counterpoint to the narrow, lithe silhouette of his suits dolabuy , his dresses were blown apart as though ripped open by the wind. Colorful dresses in neon coral, pale pink and rich floral prints hung from the body like scaffolding just barely attached to the surface of a building.
Ghesquiere seems most intrigued by the relationship between the clothes and the body, the way in which one supports the other. A slim skirt can, on its own, transform a figure with seams and structure. An enviable figure can hold up a fragile garment that seems perilously close to slipping its moorings.
Theyskens, who showed his second collection for Rochas on Wednesday, is more intrigued by the clothes as an independent, creative expression. His jackets are boxy and his skirts are simple. The interest comes in his choice of fabric. His silver and black suits are veiled in a black lace scrim. His ivory tulle evening gown, with a dramatic train, is contained by a cage of black lace. His strapless gowns are painstakingly detailed with stitching and seams lovingly outlining the breasts. Sculpted bustiers rise from the U shaped neckline of simple tops and more elaborate coats.
The second collection often is more difficult than the first, which many times comes to fruition on pent up creativity and energy. But Theyskens offered darkly elegant clothes for a woman who seeks polish, refinement and just a hint of the sardonic.
His only misstep was a reoccurring pattern reminiscent of show ribbons the sort of thing that might be pinned to the bosom of the Blueberry Pie Queen at the state fair. The unfortunate shape was found in lace insets as well as frilly appliques that clung to the back of evening coats like an ornate “Kick Me” sign.
Junya Watanabe, Andrew Gn
Designer Junya Watanabe focused on twisting and knotting as a way of transforming his simple black dresses and polka dot blouses into something more intriguing than simple day clothes. He gave each piece an artful tug to make a glance linger in admiration. He also likes to draw attention to the breasts replica louis vuitton bags , but instead of using a tailor’s stitching, he chooses a dressmaker’s more subtle approach of soft gathers, rounded darts and artful puckers.
Only Andrew Gn turned out miniskirts as vibrant and wild as an English garden. Even his coats, with their patterns of violets and roses, had pansy buttons as big as tea saucers. The collection had the sort of precious charm that would be appreciated by a woman who keeps stone trolls in her garden, lace doilies in her living room and a collection of porcelain elves in her curio cabinet.
The palette in Paris has been far more subdued than the explosive colors and patterns that dominated in Milan. Yamamoto dealt almost entirely in shades of white, gray and black, only occasionally including color and texture through the use of patchwork on his languid skirts and elongated blouses. His black skirts were brightened with a sudden jolt of red satin and his simple white shirts had patches in subtle shades of blue or cream.
The collection juxtaposed informality with formality. Even the models’ hair was divided between the two sensibilities: One side was smooth and glossy and the other was teased and high quality designer replica handbags gnarled. His enormous crew neck sweaters melted over the body. His reworked tuxedo with its high D ring belt under the bosom was sharply realized.
Kawakubo kept much of her attention on the muslin white side of her fabric. Margiela worked in white, black and gray. Theyskens’s boldest hue was a pale blush. Galliano’s kaleidoscope also emphasized gray, bronze, navy and black. A floral miniskirt, left, grows in Andrew Gn’s fashion garden.